Original Sin: Sexy, but a Misnomer
First off, let me say that Ellen Von Unwerth's collection of erotic photography
titled "Original Sin" is not for everyone. In fact, I'm not quite sure who these
bawdy bordello scenes are for, other than those of us looking for a cheap, good-looking
thrill -- which, come to think of it, is not such a bad thing. After all, these
alluring photos leave much to the promiscuous imagination. Von Unwerth shoots in
black-and-white and sepia tones. She purposely leaves some out of focus and dark.
Her models wear nothing more than masks and knee high stockings while frolicking in
crushed red velvet chicken ranches. That said, are we to consider these photos
anything more than high-end girlie pics?
The press releases announcing the show would have us adamantly reference the
New Orleans father of steamy red light district photography, Ernest J. Bellocq,
when we look at Von Unwerth's work, presumably to lend this gallery touring show
some artistic credence (89 of Bellocq's glass plates were exhibited at the Museum of
Modern Art in 1970). If we do that, then we might as well take the "Original" part
of the exhibit's title out because Von Unwerth's photos are almost exact reproductions
of Bellocq's masked nudes. That in turn would leave us with the simpler epithet "Sin,"
which does have quite a ring to it. After all, the fact that Von Unwerth, a longtime
fashion photographer, is being touted as a visionary artist is a sin.
First of all, take a closer look at Bellocq's photography, by which Von Unwerth is
supposed to have been "inspired": His models were real prostitutes and denizens of
Storyville, New Orleans' turn-of-the-century center of ill repute, not the supermodels
that Von Unwerth transplants from New York. Bellocq's women were rough-edged and crude
instead of made-up and looking like they could be on the cover of Mademoiselle. If that
doesn't beat all, we are then reminded by the sponsors -- the Tequila Sauza Estate
Collection -- that Von Unwerth, like Bellocq, makes sure not to belittle the models
she is snapping in the altogether but rather makes a point to dignify them in these
prints. Yeah, right. "Original Sin" is no more a collection of contemporary American
art than Cindy Crawford is an American hero.
Von Unwerth was commissioned by the Tequila Sauza Estate to interpret the concept of
original sin for this, the second annual show hosted by the tequila company. However,
as an interpretive body of work, it is either vague or demeaning and seems to serve
only as a platform for this better-than-average fashion photography. For example, is
Von Unwerth telling us that lust is the original sin, and if she is, why are there
shots of dried flowers and a Louisiana swamp littered with tree stumps as in Plus Tard
and Paradis Perdu? If anything, these are sweet interpretations of the passing of love
or youth that don't have anything to do with the so-called raunchy depictions of women
in the other photos. Then there is L'envie, a black-and-white photo of a masked,
bare-chested model with her hands in the air and a seductive look on her face. Is the
original sin lust, desire, or envy? Again, in the end it's best not to bother with the
artistic merit and just go look at the sexy scenarios. Von Unwerth has done an excellent
job at that. -- Sam Martin